Find great deals for ILFORD EM10 Darkroom Printing Exposure Monitor Boxed. Shop with confidence on eBay!. Feb 13, I have pm’d you Tony. Very kind offer much appreciated. By the by, do you recommend any other metering assistance for determining exposure. Jun 19, Ilford EM10 Exposure Meter. Anyone have any experience using this meter. On a whim I bought one off of ebay for $20 delivered. It arrived.
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ILFORD EM10 Darkroom Printing Exposure Monitor Boxed | eBay
PM your address and I’ll pop in the post. Originally Posted by Tony Marlow. Some of us use use test strips to judge exposure and contrast, whilst others use electronic enlarging meters. An EM10 iltord probably not what you think it is. It will NOT tell you what the correct exposure or contrast is for any print. All it does it does is make its little light come on when the enlarger brightness emm10 a level as set on its numerical dial.
That numerical dial is not calibrated to anything meaningful and that’s the trick with this little device. Once you have set its dial to a ilofrd, you can then adjust your enlarger brightness until the meter light comes on.
The problem with that is that the only adjustment on your enlarger for brightness is the aperture or possibly a density dial on some enlargers.
Aperture stop adjustments are too big for this little meter. Half stop adjustments are too big for it. What the em10 does is allow you to reproduce the same brightness as was set on it previously.
When you are printing a set of negatives on say 8×10 paper, then with very little experience you will soon know that at say f8 on your enlarger lens, you will need an approximate time to print at that size and aperture.
Due to variations caused by using slightly different crop for each negative and variations in lighting on each subject, the time for each print will be slightly different.
So being able to replicate a single brightness using an em10 is of no value. You must do a test strip for each negative you print to find the exact time for it and knowing that a 35mm neg printed on 8×10 at f8 will need an approximate time will put you close enough that your first test strip should be able to fine tune to exact time.
Keeps notes of print cropping, time and aperture on the back of your work prints. All exposure meters for enlargers require calibration to the filters being used, the enlarger lamp brightness, the paper being used, the developer, the developer strength, the developer temp and the developer time before they can be accurate.
That calibration is a time consuming and tedious process which takes no account of artistic variation from the norm whatever that is. Using test strips is the way to learn. At first its difficult because you have to make the correct assessment of which step on the strip is the one which will give you the time you require and how much contrast you need.
And remember that if for example, the 4th step of a test strip is the one you choose and each step was 2 seconds, then to reproduce that in the final print, you need to give final print four 2 second expsoures and NOT one 8 second exposure.
The warm up and cool down of the lamp is not replicated by giving one 8 second exposure and that makes a very noticeable difference in the print.
Last edited by Argentum; 15th February at In my experiance the best range of enlarlging meters on the market today are the R. Designs range, I have used the analyser pro for a few years and would not like to be without it, it’s bascily simple to use and very acurate, Richard. Being able to reproduce the same brightness regardless of print crop or enlargement is what the EM10 is all about.
It does not need to be calibrated – it only needs to be consistent between use.
Using it allows you to get close to an exposure value for a given paper and exposure time which you will have used in the original calibration from a highlight reading. It must be said that it’s not terribly iflord, at least in part because the dial is too small to read accurately.
Ilford Electronic Darkroom Equipment
You have to switch off the safelight as that will effect the reading and invariably you end up with a partial-stop value and if your lens has click-stops you may not be able to select a value close to the clicks.
You also have to use a standard exposure time and the combination of ek10 fixed time and the available f-stop range of your lens may not make for a practical combination. The need to take a highlight reading means you are reading through a dense part of the negative which means the resulting light level is too low for an accurate reading if any! Somewhere on the Web there is an article on how to use the meter to determine paper grade using highlight and shadow readings and a chart, but I don’t have a link to it to hand and have never tried it myself.
In short, although I think it is reasonably useful in theory, for me it is too fussy in use and you’d be better off with standard test strips or, at best, use the EM10 to get you within perhaps half of a stop and use that value as a basis for your test strip – ‘though as Rob says, you will get pretty good at estimating exposure time for common print sizes, assuming your negatives are fairly consistent. Either way, I don’t think it will save you much ilforx in test strips if that was what you were hoping.
ILFORD EM10 EXPOSURE METER***
I have one but have never used it. I must give it a go someday. Then all of a sudden there has been a spate of “new EM10s”. I was looking at SDS ilfor night and he has a number of things whose prices compare very well with the famous “bay”. Find all posts by RH Designs. All times are GMT. The time now is Find ilfotd posts by kennethcooke. Tony Marlow Print Exchange Manager.
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Shen Hao with lens, meter, dev tanks etc. Ilford Multigrade Filter and exposure compensation.